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On October 11, Marine Thevenet, 35, made the first female ascent of Juneru in Albarracín, Spain, turning into the eighth lady on this planet to climb V15. Juneri was first climbed by Rubén Díaz Torres and has seen various repeats, along with by longtime trad star James Pearson.
24-years after Fred Nicole climbed Dreamtimein Cresciano, Switzerland, V15 stays a haloed marker of concern. Ashima Shiraishi was the first lady to climb the grade when she made the second ascent of Dai Koyamada’s Horizonin Mount Hiei, Japan. Since then, solely Mishka Ishii, Caddy Lehmann, Jana ŠvecováBrooke Rabatou, Katie Lamb, Janja Garnbret, and—now—Marine Thevenet have climbed so onerous.
Thevenet found climbing on the age of 10, by way of Vertigo Membership in Beaujolais, France. She quickly took to the opponents scene, entering into her first Youth World Cup in 2004, at age 15, and persevering with on the circuit for the next 12 years. Although she began with a Lead background, Thevenet finally began specializing in Boulder, which led to various prime ten World Cup finishes, along with fifth place at Innsbruck in 2014.
By 2016, nonetheless, Thevenet found herself unable to pursue extreme stage opponents whereas moreover trying to foster a occupation as a contract lawyer. So she retired from competing and shifted her climbing focus to exterior bouldering. “I adore it,” Thevenet says. “I get to be with mates, and observe obvious traces exterior.”
She had climbed her first 8A (V11) when she was 25, nonetheless after retiring from competitions, she set herself the target of ending 30 8A boulders by the purpose she turned thirty. Now 35, she’s climbed better than 100 points 8A or extra sturdy. Just a few of her “proudest” ascents embody iconic traces paying homage to Dave Graham’s Scarred for Life (V12) and Nothin’ nonetheless Sunshine (V13). She climbed her first V14 in 2020 with an ascent of Magic Picket’s New Base Line and in 2022 repeated Bishop’s Compass North (V14).
That exact same 12 months, Thevenet, now residing in Annecy, France, started SweeMT: a sports activities actions firm dedicated to managing contracts with extreme athletes from throughout the globe. Presently, SweeMT works with climbers, alpinists, cross nation skiers, and paragliders. No matter this workload, she’s continued to reinforce in her bouldering.
Visiting Albarracin ultimate October, Thevenet climbed Misplaced in Silence (V13) and tried Juneru “by chance” as a no-commitment enterprise. She shocked herself by feeling good on the strikes, which motivated her to take a position some exact effort. That exact same journey, she had an excellent strive by sticking the underside crux switch and taking a spectacular fall off the topout (embedded beneath). “I knew exactly what I wished to do to climb Juneruand I spent this September teaching significantly for it,” Thevenet acknowledged. “I did various lockoffs and muscular vitality teaching to hold the positions between each switch.”
She spent her first two durations of 2024 reacquainting herself with the strikes and climbing the tip of the problem utterly. As quickly as she had the best dialed, she began specializing in sticking the low crux properly enough to carry on. And on her third session, she despatched the boulder. “Mentally, I had a easy time with Juneru,” Thevenet knowledgeable Climbing. “Initially, I was a bit scared to return for it, nonetheless as quickly as I tried the boulder I let my motivation lead me to the best!”